Orcs & Gobbo's advance orders!

thats right folks, the O&G have their advanced order stuff out and there is some amazing stuff! an arachnarok spider with a 100mm X 150mm base!! its massive! and their new rule book is a hardcover and in full color.

click here to see all of the items up for grabs!

more mecha

more rules/ stuff. square bases, 180 degree view from the front of the model/ like warhammer fantasy vision area. the facing of the shooter and the person being shot determines the parts that may be hit. head hardest to hit, but holds most of the vision sensors so if destroyed they have a negation on everything. legs hurt = slower, arms = weapon no work, chest = reaction and control problems but most armored. the pilot pod = dead robot that cant move, just in the way.

there are range bands that depend on the weapon/walker. SMG have < 3" 2D6, less then 6 but >3" then D6, then 7"-12" D3. as the guns bullets spray out so less bullets hit farther away, but closer and more shots hit the mark.

will also be a skirmish type game with a few models(I.E. warmahordes)

the Empire's walkers are referred as Olympians and will have Greek/Roman, and possibly other gods(basic walkers will be legionnaire's) . most likely will also have a hammer that becomes red-hot, but 2 handed called Vulcan's fury.

the Unity of the Blessed Lotus have fury's and will have animal names (I.E. lion fury).        

mecha gameing

i am disappointed  in the lack of mecha tabletop games, so as of now i have embarked upon the task of developing one. i have laid out the basics, such as unit types, basic equipment(solid/kinetic ammo, energy/lasers, shields, blades, etc.) but nothing specific. also pilot training/experience will play a big part, along with army specific rules and specialist equipment that hampers opponents(special smoke that dampens laser effectiveness, loss of vision, etc.) and a damage chart that involves separate body parts along with separate damage types(severe, minor, moderate, and superficial). these are subject to change as this is just beginning of the process.   

Blood Angels now up for Advanced order!

Thats right folks, the new blood angels stuff is now available.

 now this has me torn. i hate the storm raven as a person, but love it as an ork player, as it has a ton of bits. i also like the look of the dreadnoughts. the battle force,though, is the one i like the most, as it helps new people get into the hobby and its normally cheaper than getting them all alone. the stormraven comes in 116 pieces, with HB, assault cannons, plasma cannons, bloodstrike missiles, and a moded magna-grapple. you can see why my orky side loves the bits. they are released on the 5th of February.

nid list V.2

2000pts.

Hive Tyrant, regen, leech essence, psychic scream-190
2 guards, rending, scything, 120
-------
2 hive guard, impaler cannon, 100
2hive guard, impaler cannon, 100
2 Zoanthropes, warp blast, warp lance, 120
------
5 warriors, 1 venom cannon, scything talons/no devourers,165
20 genestealers, scything, 320
30 termagaunts, spike rifles, 180
tervigon, scything,regen, catalyst,210
----
30x2 gargoyle,fleshborer,360
3 shrike,barbed strangler, rending claws(no scything),135  

if i had the points i would also add a full 30 squad of hormagaunts with adrenal glands and give the tyrant hive commander, because the hormagaunts could outflank and i add +1 to my reserve rolls. my elite slots are all for anti-tank, and a little anti-MEQ. pretty much you swamp the opponent in bodies, then hit them with the MC. and with a semi-continuous stream of termagaunts each turn, the enemy will absolutely need to make priority decisions.
i just love coming up with new lists. i like list building. just saying.  

score.

im now at 1-3-3. also i have not stated this, but my posts are not going to be solely competitive type things. i may throw them in once and a while, but not regularly.

Another important hobby tip: lighting.
now everybody knows the most important thing in painting(besides paint/brush) is lighting, because it matters little how well you paint if you cannot see what you are painting. The different types of lighting are: room, lamp, and natural lighting. Room lighting is byfar the worst for you, as the light has to go from ceiling to you thus lessening the amount so its harder on your eyes to focus and such.

next is the lamp. It is when you have a normal bulb desk lamp and is a great improvement over room light, as it is closer too you and increases the amount of light directly given but still dulls the models as soft bulbs/normal are yellow so still not perfect.

now is the natural lights which are the best to cause less stress to your eyes as it is white light and imitates the sun so it causes less eye stress and is the brightest of the 3. But these lights are more expensive then the other 2. But in the long run, the natural light gives the best working light to use.

say hello to Shas'O Fi'rios Mont'yr Shovah!

here is the new commander for my Tau! he is a forge world model,and if anybody has a foot(a bit odd, i know) i need one. actually, i need quite a few crisis suit feet. the above model had different feet though. he is also around 98% done. still need foot, that little disk in the back painted, and the count as Dawn blade still needs to be made. hes going to be a count-as farsight when i want him to be, but a normal commander when i feel like it. this week i only have around like 2 days of school cause of the cold, so i had some time to work on my guys.

updating your army.

ok, we all know that when you start your first army some times you get that perfect one and dont need to switch or still like one of your older armies. well we also know that nobody is going to be a perfect painter or converter when you start/started painting. but what about when you DO get better at these things? how do you add to the older models who have a poorer painting job than your recent ones. or what about those wonderfully converted models compared to the older ones? the converting thing can be dealt with by just adding some conversions to them, but the paint can be a bit harder to deal with.

one thing people may try is to just spray them over and repaint them. others try to touch them up to make them better looking. i went with the first one, seeing as the paint on my orks was just AWFUL. now, your models may be well enough to do the touch-up method. and one extreme method may be to remove the paint entirely. now people may think this is a better version than just spraying over, but depending on what you use to remove paint you may end up destroying the model. it is also more expensive because most people should have a can of spray paint for priming you models, just use that. but the needed substance may be something you dont have and wont have any other use for it. so its a personal call.      

Gray Knights announced!

thats right kiddies, those marines of the 666 chapter are getting their update this April! more info on the specifics will be reported when available.

codex nids

ok, so i borrowed the nids codex from my cousin and decided to make a 1000 pt. list. its a bit different than i normally would go.

hive tyrant, Hive commander, leech essence, paroxysm, regeneration-215
------
3 warriors, rending claws(no scything talons) 105
2x30 hormagaunts, scything talons, 180
24 termagaunts, flesh bores, 120
-----
carnifex, scything talons, 160/mycetic spore,40.

total:1000

the reason i decided to do this was to expect the opponent not having the ability to deal with 84 gaunts, 30 of them outflanking, a tyrant rampaging along with them, and a deep-striking carnifex to take care of the vehicles or other tough things. the tyrant is pretty durable with regeneration and leech, seeing as he can steal wounds that he didnt make back with regen. and the bone sword will take out all but the hardest HQ, and even then they will have a hard time dealing with him. the warriors are there for a synapse bubble/replacement if anything should happen to the tyrant. they are also some amazing troop, with 3 wounds each!